A lot of these links I kept from when Nan ( TX ) posted them a long while back in various threads over in Country Concepts. I just complied them and put them all in one thread.
EXTERNAL SYMPTOMS FOR DIAGNOSING POULTRY DISEASES archive.msstate.edu/dept/poultry/diagext.htm Poultry diseases - common symptoms www.dpi.qld.gov.au/poultry/5114.html Spotting disease early.
www.canadianpoultry.ca/spotting_disease_early.htm Poultry health.
www.welphatchery.com/poultry_health.aspDirectory of Federal and State Veterinary Offices www.aphis.usda.gov/vs/birdbi.../stateinfo.html Find your local Avian Veterinarian www.aav.org/vet-lookup/ Sour Crop
By Dr. David J. Kersting, D.V.M.
From The American Cockatiel Society's Online Magazine www.browneggblueegg.com/SourCrop.html Poultry Medication Guide www.penpages.psu.edu/penpage...01/2980183.HTML FDA Approved Animal Drug Products dil.vetmed.vt.edu/NadaFIrst/NADA.cfm FDA Approved Animal Drug Products
Online Database System
Drug Product Abstract www.goatworld.com/health/med...andamprol.shtml MEDICATIONS -
Most commonly used.
Terramycin (Oxytetracycline) - safe; use @ 200 mg. To 1000 mg. (1 Gm.) per gallon water; withdrawal time - 5 days.
Aureomycin (Chlortetracycline) - use exactly as Terramycin.
NF 180 - not water soluble - must use in feed @ 100-200 Gm./ton.
Neomycin - good against E. coli bacteria. May use in water or feed.
Gallimycin (Erythromycin) - water or feed, good against Mycoplasma. Withdrawal - 1 day.
Amprolium (Corid) - for treating coccidiosis; very safe. (See recommended dose under coccidiosis).
Sulfaquinoxaline or Sulfamethazine - water or feed; less safe; somewhat toxic to bone marrow. Withdrawal - 10 days.
Tramizol - wormer, 20 mg. Per bird per day (1 Gm. powder per gallon water for 1-2 days).
HANDBOOK ON POULTRY DISEASES
Simon Shane, Ph.D.
School of Veterinary Medicine
Louisiana State University, USA asasea.com/po36_97.html Necropsy Dissected Chicken Parts. (warning graphic pictures) department.caes.uga.edu/poul...dent/lab202.cfm ON-LINE PUBLICATIONS BY TOPIC
POULTRY DISEASES www.ansci.umn.edu/poultry/resources/diseases.htm Hova-Bator Intructions Download www.gqfmfg.com/company/downl...rderid=&userid================================================
" Plans for a 19th century chicken house are available free at
www.tartergate.com/chicken.php ( you will need adobe to open )
Modeled after the chicken house built by Joy Tarter's grandparents in 1895, plans for "Mammy's 1895 Chicken House" include an architectural layout of the house, a complete list of required materials, and full-color photos depicting the Tarter's re-creation. "
www.tartergate.com/===============================================
A Cheep and Easy Chick Brooder This may come in handy for you all who will be receiving day olds. Be sure to scroll down to the bottom of the page to see the pictures.
www.poultryhelp.com/brooders.html===============================================
Turkeys Turkey Rearing/Feed Program www.millerhatcheries.com/Information/Turkeys/turkey_rearing.htm Turkey Management interactive.usask.ca/ski/agriculture/animals/poultry/poultry_management.html Raising turkeys www.agric.nsw.gov.au/reader/poultry/a509.htm===============================================
This site has diagrams of... Respiratory System of the Chicken The movement of sternum and ribs during respiration
Male Reproductive Organs & Urinary Tract
The digestive system
Reproductive organs of the female bird www.iacuc.arizona.edu/training/poultry/species.html===============================================
This site has everything you ever wanted to know about chicken feet.
www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/eggs/res13-feet.html===============================================
Here are some links for home butchering of poultry.
I can not stress this enough.
>>>>Warning some pictures are graphic!<<<< Home Processing of Poultry www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/livestocksystems/DI0701.html Butchering www.siteupgrade.com/poultry/butcheringpoultryfinal.html A flock of your own.
www.gatewaytovermont.com/thefarm/slaughter.htm This NebGuide provides complete step-by-step instructions with pictures for home processing of chickens. www.ianr.unl.edu/pubs/foods/heg144.htm Field Dressing Poultry: A Beginner's Perspective www.feathersite.com//Poultry/Stuff/Yonder/FieldDressing.html============================================
Here are some links to help you determine when you butcher if your meat is safe to eat. Warning these sites have pictures some people may find disturbing.
Avian Necropsy Techniques edis.ifas.ufl.edu/VM009 A Picture Guide of Chicken Feed Withdrawal www.engormix.com/e_articles_...ustry.asp?ID=52 This site has slides of a necropsy .
ag.ansc.purdue.edu/poultry/s...tomy/sld001.htm Poultry Disease Diagnosis www.msstate.edu/dept/poultry/pub1276.htm Poultry Necropsy Basics ohioline.osu.edu/vme-fact/0012.html necropsy info: www.angelfire.com/ar2/rojo1/post.html (how to necropsy)
www.angelfire.com/ar2/rojo1/postmort.html (how to examine findings)
anatomy info: www.msstate.edu/dept/poultry/pics/anatomy.jpg (anatomy)
ulisse.cas.psu.edu/4hembryo/female.html (hen reproduction)
Merck site for help diagnosis/gen'l info/photos: www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index.jsp Excellent pictures of normal chicken anatomy.
department.caes.uga.edu/poul...dent/lab202.cfm Here is the merck veterinary manual www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index.jsp===============================================
How to pick-up a chickenThe wings should be held together, over the back, the legs held
by the fingers. A frightened or fractious bird can be calmed by
covering its head with a cloth.
www.iacuc.arizona.edu/training/images/handling.gif WHEN RESTRAINING BIRDS, REMEMBER THAT THEY CAN SUFFOCATE,
IF THE BREAST BONE IS NOT FREE TO MOVE IN AND OUT!
Diagram showing movement of sternum and ribs during respiration:
A. Inspiration
B. Expiration
C. Sternum (keel)
www.iacuc.arizona.edu/training/images/diag.gif www.iacuc.arizona.edu/training/poultry/index.html===============================================
TIPS FOR HATCHING HEALTHY CHICKS 1.
Egg collection. Gather eggs at least twice per day. This removes eggs from a contaminated environment and reduces exposure to hot or cold weather. Hot weather promotes preincubation of the embryos resulting in poor hatchability and chick quality. Cold weather, below 50 F, will also reduce hatchability.
2.
Sanitation. Remove adhering dirt, nest litter, or stains with a soft, clean cloth or sandpaper. If an egg requires more than two wipes to get it clean, then it should either be discarded or washed with a sanitizer. Use a sanitizer or disinfectant such as Lysol™ to disinfect the eggs.
3.
Storage. Store eggs in a cool environment. The optimum temperature range for storage of hatching eggs is 55 to 67 F. When storing eggs less than 10 days, use the upper part of the temperature range and when storing for longer periods use the lower part of the range. If possible, maintain relative humidity between 75 and 80 %.
4.
Selection. Inspect the eggs for quality. Eggs with moderate to severe shell deformation and eggs that are filthy should not be incubated. Shell problems usually result in too much moisture loss during incubation which dehydrates and kills developing embryos. Even worse, these eggs are very susceptible to bacterial penetration and contamination. One contaminated egg may spread contamination to every egg and embryo in the incubator.
5.
Incubation. Incubate chicken eggs at 99.5°F and about 60% relative humidity. Ideally you should have two incubators. One for incubating the eggs until the first egg pips, and a second incubator to be used only for pipping and hatching. The pipping and hatching process can produce a lot of contamination. Eggs in the incubator that are not scheduled to hatch until several days later are susceptible to contamination when there are older eggs in the same incubator that are pipping and hatching.
6.
Pulling the Hatch. Take the newly hatched chicks out of the hatching incubator as soon as they are dry. Leaving them in the hatcher for several hours after hatch could result in heat stress and/or dehydration.
7.
Brooding. Provide the chicks with feed and water in a clean, heated environment. For the first week, chicks need a brooding temperature between 90 and 95 F. Drop the temperature 5 F each week until you reach 75 F.
Care of Eggs Before Incubation Begins Fertile eggs should be incubated within 7 days after they are laid. The number of eggs that hatch begins to decrease if held too long. If it is necessary to hold the eggs before incubation, keep them at a temperature of 50 to 65 degrees F. Refrigerator temperatures (around 45 degrees F) will kill the embryo. The embryo may resume development if the temperature is above 75 degrees F. It is best to have an incubator ready for the eggs when you pick them up.
ohioline.osu.edu/b633/b633_3.html Receiving eggs in the mail.
Receiving The Eggs Make sure any broken eggs are immediately removed from the carton and container.
Make sure that ALL EGGS are pointed small end down. The air sac is suppose to be in the larger end.
Let the eggs set in the tray or container small in down, flat surface for at least 24 hours. This allows everything to hopefully go back into proper position. If they do not, they will probably not form or hatch.
Candle all eggs before setting them in the incubator. What you are looking for will be small cracks in the shell and an air sac that will go to the side and or bottom when the egg is turned upside down and sideways. Although they may still hatch with a broken air sac the odds are greatly against you. If you set an egg with a broken air sac, candle it to see that it is properly developing and watch it. If it explodes during incubation you may even loose the hatch. I have heard about putting a fingernail polish along the crack and hatching eggs with small cracks. I tried this years ago with an egg to see if it does work and it did.
ohioline.osu.edu/b633/images/fig1.jpg Identifying fertility in fresh eggs. If not fertile, an egg has a blastodisc. If fertile, cell division prior to oviposition (laying) results in a blastoderm.
Sometimes you need to know what to do if you have a cracked egg.
www.voren.com/96-02-02.htm Repairing Cracked Eggs Although there are many things that can be used with equal success, I use simple Elmer's Glue-All. If I am dealing with fine hairline cracks, I will "paint" a very thin layer of glue over the crack. If I am dealing with a break that has caused an indentation in the shell, I will use a single ply of facial tissue as a support webbing over which to paint the glue. Many times, as the glue dries, the weight of it will force the indentation to extend further in the egg. The tissue acts as a support to help prevent this.
The easiest way to proceed is to first cut a piece of tissue that is shaped like, but a little bigger than, the indentation. Then separate the two plies, and place one over the indentation. Paint the edges with a thin layer of glue. The glue that seeps through the tissue should be enough to make the overlap stick to the edges of the indentation. Once this is done, paint the rest of the tissue with glue to create an airtight seal. If I am not satisfied with how well it sticks, I will paint more glue around the edges of the tissue. If I am not happy with the strength of the tissue webbing, I will place the second ply on top of the first piece. The existing glue should be sufficient to make the second ply stick to the first. The main problem that occurs with repaired eggs that are not killed by the trauma or contamination is extreme water loss. Many aviculturists use different repair materials and glue compounds because they believe that what they use will prevent water loss better than those that they have tried previously. I personally believe that success rate is more of a function of the number of hairline cracks that you do not see, rather than one type of material being much better than the next. Eggs with several unnoticed hairline cracks that go unrepaired will most certainly experience a greater water loss than those that have no "hidden faults." On the other hand, if you cover the egg too extensively with repair material, it will not allow the necessary water loss to take place. This, of course, will also result in the death of the embryo. I have never saved a damaged egg that has been damaged to the point that fluid has leaked out of it.
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Here are some links that have good info on ducks.
Longshadow Farms www.longshadowfarms.com/FAQ.html Leg and Foot Disorders in Domestic Fowl www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/poultry/factsheets/35.html Waterfowl Resources ulisse.cas.psu.edu/ext/WFowl.html===============================================
This site has the BEST set of pictures that is a step by step instruction on what to do when you receive your chicks in the mail.
www.ellsonsacre.com/baby.htm==============================================
Air Quality Maintaining good air quality at all times will help to prevent respiratory diseases. This is assisted by proper ventilation of the poultry building, which will remove excess moisture, reduce ammonia levels, and keep down the amount of dust in the air. Fans (or open windows) are needed to provide proper ventilation. High levels of ammonia and dust can damage lung tissue and increase susceptibility to respiratory disease.
www.agr.gov.sk.ca/DOCS/livestock/poultry/Diseases.asp Easy ammonia check.
All you need too do is bend down until get to the level of your chickens. If your eyes , nose and throat burn then the level is too high for your birds.
Symptoms in your flock.
Ammonia gas dissolves in the fluid (tears) around the eyes of your birds. One sign is the bird will rub the eye with its wing. Other symptoms include watery eyes, facial swelling, abnormally shaped eyes, and blindness.
Treatment Clean out your coop by replacing litter remove wet litter asap. I have heard that vitamin A can be beneficial as well.
Increase ventilation . Ventilation well help control the air quality . This is particularly true during cold weather, when ammonia levels can reach dangerously high levels.
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Link for chicken tractorsNo blueprints, no descriptions, just pictures.
www.thecitychicken.com/=============================================
